High surf predicted through Monday

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The National Weather Service (NWS) is reporting a high surf advisory for Central Coast beaches through Monday. On Sunday there will be surf building 10-12 feet and sets of 15 feet.

The NWS predicts dangerous rip currents, beach erosion and “sneaker waves” “inundating” beaches and jetties.

They strongly suggest swimmers and inexperienced surfers stay out of the water. Stay off the jetties and don’t turn your back to the ocean if you are close enough to get the least bit wet.

A Northwest swell is rolling in so northwest and west-facing beaches will be the most effected. Basically, much of Malibu and then from Santa Monica down to Rancho Palos Verdes. There might be some high surf in Orange County, but the NWS is not reporting any surf advisories for San Diego County.

This will of course bring out many surfers for the next two days so take your cameras if you are going to the beach on Sunday.

The weather will be nice after 10 a.m. Temperatures should be in the mid to high 60s, with a mostly sunny sky. In the evenings the temperatures should fall to the mid to high 30s so there might be frost on the ground in some areas in the early morning.

The humidity is low so be aware of continuing fire danger.

From the NWS advisory:

HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 9 PM THIS EVENING TO 4 PM PST MONDAY …

THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE IN LOS ANGELES/OXNARD HAS ISSUED A HIGH SURF ADVISORY … WHICH IS IN EFFECT FROM 9 PM THIS EVENING TO 4 PM PST MONDAY. *

SURF…BUILDING TO 8 TO 10 FEET TONIGHT … PEAKING ON SUNDAY WITH SURF 10 TO 12 FEET WITH SETS TO 15 FEET…THEN DIMINISHING TO 8 TO 10 FEET ON MONDAY. THE SURF WILL THEN SLOWLY SUBSIDE THROUGH MONDAY AFTERNOON. THE HIGHEST SURF WILL BE ON WEST TO NORTHWEST FACING BEACHES. *

IMPACTS … LARGE WAVES AND STRONG RIP CURRENTS WILL INCREASE THE RISK OF OCEAN DROWNING. SNEAKER WAVES CAN SUDDENLY WASH PEOPLE OFF OF BEACHES OR ROCKS AND CAPSIZE SMALL BOATS NEARSHORE.

PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS … A HIGH SURF ADVISORY MEANS THAT HIGH SURF AND RIP CURRENTS WILL MAKE SWIMMING AND ROCK JETTIES DANGEROUS.

REMEMBER … SWIM NEAR A LIFEGUARD. IF CAUGHT IN A RIP CURRENT REMAIN CALM. DON’T FIGHT THE CURRENT. SWIM IN A DIRECTION FOLLOWING THE SHORELINE. WHEN OUT OF THE CURRENT, SWIM BACK TO SHORE. IF TIRED, FLOAT OR TREAD WATER UNTIL OUT OF THE RIP CURRENT. IF UNABLE TO ESCAPE, FACE THE SHORE AND CALL OR WAVE FOR HELP.

Top photo by Tim Forkes